Techtips - BMW E3. Transmission Swapsby Robert Bowen (Taken from. BMW 3- Series (E3. Performance Guide 1. Robert Bowen)There are two main reasons to swap transmissions in an E3. FYI, the first scenario is easier. From Worn to Better With both automatics and manuals, there are some year- to- year differences in the six- cylinder engines that make seemingly straightforward swaps a little more complicated. For one thing early eta engines have two crank- position sensors mounted to the bellhousing. The 1. 98. 7 and later “super” eta engines and all 3. This means that swapping from early to late is easier than from late to early, since there are no holes in the later bellhousing for mounting the sensor. In addition, there is a difference in the output flange of the transmission, matching the two different giubos used on the E3. If you are swapping an automatic into an early car, make sure to stick with the early transmission to resolve both problems. Later cars can use either transmission (with some concerns noted below) but need to have the matching driveshaft. If you are replacing the same kind of transmission (automatic for automatic, 2. A 3. 0- mm thin- walled socket is needed and you may as well replace the rear seal while you have it apart. There are three different versions of the Getrag 2. M2. 0 engines. All three are very similar because they have the same bellhousing bolt pattern and are the same length. That means they can be interchanged relatively easily. They all have a similar external shift linkage. Many external parts are swappable, but each has some differences that can complicate swaps. The first difference is in the crank- position sensor location. A few later transmissions were cast with an undrilled boss for the position sensors, so check carefully if you want to install one on your early eta engine. If you want to use an early transmission on a later engine there is one slight issue. The bellhousing is approximately 1. Many people have successfully swapped them without difficulty, but to be on the safe side you can use a thicker Sachs throw- out bearing (PN 2. It looks complicated, but the Getrag 2. Rebuilding one isn’t for the timid, but it’s not impossible either. It is moved by the shifter to select either first or second gear.
BMW E30 AUTO TO MANUAL CONVERSION might not make exciting reading, but BMW. E36 manual swap PDF e36 m3 manual swap PDF bmw e34 engine swap PDF acp swap meet PDF c3 engine swap PDF e30 manual swap PDF e30 m50 swap guide PDF. Download Instant Access To Bmw E36 M3 Engine Swap PDF Ebook BMW E36 M3 ENGINE SWAP BMW E36 M3 ENGINE SWAP PDF. MANUAL, Common Issues With Philips Soundbar Manual. The synchronizers slow the shift and match the speed of the gear to the synchro sleeve for a smooth shift. All three have to be in near perfect condition for the transmission to shift well. First, the early (up to 1. Starting in 1. 98. The linkage is not interchangeable between the two types, so make sure to get the linkage that matches your transmission and car. If you need to use the later linkage with an earlier transmission, you can use the mounting bracket from an E3. M3. If you are working with a four- cylinder car, the Getrag 2. The 2. 40 transmission in M1. M4. 2- powered 3. The bellhousing bolt pattern is the biggest difference, aside from the later- style shift linkage. The M1. 0 engine has a unique, smaller bolt pattern that ended with the demise of that four- cylinder engine family. Unfortunately the 2. M2. 0 bellhousing bolt pattern is not the same as that of the M1. The M4. 2 3. 18is engine shares its bolt pattern with the M5. E3. 6 models as well as the S5. E3. 6 and E4. 6 cars. This is the same bolt pattern as the M2. E3. 0 transmission for a later one is possible but difficult. The transmission mounting crossmember has to be modified to fit the tilted angle of the later transmission. Other than the obvious issues with driveshaft length between the various transmissions, the mounts, shift linkages, and other issues have to be dealt with on a case- by- case basis. In general it’s best to stick with a transmission that matches the engine you are running—or at least one that shares the same bellhousing bolt pattern and orientation. The M3’s tough 2. M1. 0, but there is no real reason to do so. The gearing is the same and the 2. M1. 0 engine. The same goes for swapping later Getrag 2. ZF six- speed transmissions, from an E3. E4. 6 behind an M4. Sure, it bolts into place, and a good driveshaft shop can shorten and weld a driveshaft to match, but any other transmission is going to be much heavier and stronger than needed. Some people prefer the E3. Getrag 2. 50 behind the M2. It must be used with a higher final- drive ratio to compensate on the highway, but really there is very little advantage and a few disadvantages. The 2. 50 has a reputation for poor shift quality and is not as strong as the 2. E3. 0. Bolted to an M2. Getrag 2. 50 requires a modified transmission crossmember to account for the tilt and a matching driveshaft from an E3. The E3. 6 driveshaft requires that you swap the center support bearing for an E3. The ZF transmissions installed in the later E4. E3. 6 M3 (3. 10 and 3. M2. 0 (with the same notes as above). These are great- shifting, strong transmissions but it is hard to imagine a combination of M2. Getrag 2. 60. If you are swapping in a DOHC engine, a ZF is a great choice versus the Getrag 2. In general, if you are keeping your stock engine I recommend that you stick with an E3. This holds true for engine swaps too. In many cases it’s recommended to stick with the car’s original transmission, clutch, and flywheel. From Automatic to Manual Chances are, if you have an automatic transmission E3. This is not a difficult swap to perform, although collecting all the parts can be a challenge. The easiest way to do the swap is to buy a parts car and park it next to the transplant recipient while you perform the swap. That makes it easier for you to figure out all the small differences and ensure that you aren’t missing some little fastener or clip. Rarely do they give trouble. The shiny spot is actually iron transferred from the friction surface on the speed gear. This ring needs to be replaced. The dark color is from additives in the transmission fluid. You can find most of the parts at a local junkyard or online with a bit of searching. Just be prepared for your swap to take a little longer since you don’t have another car nearby for reference. A pull- your- part type of junkyard makes this a little easier since you can use a parts car in the junkyard as your reference. Obviously the most important part of the swap is the transmission. Make sure to choose a manual based on the information in the “Interchange Chart” above. Pick one that has the holes for the rear crankshaft position sensors if your engine has them, otherwise you don’t need to be so picky. Pull the complete shift linkage from a manual car, including the tunnel bracket. Make sure to get a driveshaft that matches your new transmission too. This driveshaft must come from the engine and transmission combination you will end up with—a 3. Getrag 2. 40 needs a different shaft than a 3. Getrag 2. 60. Match giubo diameter or swap the output shaft on your donor transmission. You need a transmission mounting crossmember from a manual transmission car, as the mounts are different than those on an automatic. You also need a set of brake and clutch pedals—either an entire pedal box assembly or just the two pedals and their pivot. It’s easy enough to pull the old pivot from under the dash and replace just the pedals, although some people prefer to swap the entire box assembly, which requires pulling the steering column. Buy a single- mass flywheel and matching clutch assembly, which bolts in place of your original torque converter and flex plate. Make sure to buy and install a new pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft to support the manual transmission input shaft. Get new master and slave cylinders. It’s just not worth the chance of getting a defective set from a parts car. The same goes for the mounts, giubo, and center support bearing. If you are going to remove all these parts during the swap, it makes sense to do it right and replace all the rubber pieces and wear items at the same time. Take your time and rebuild the shift linkage and check for other issues as well. Replace any used nylon self- locking nuts with new ones; they are not designed to be used indefinitely as their locking feature (the nylon insert) tends to break down with repeated use, especially in a hot and oily environment. Once your new transmission, shifter, driveshaft, and clutch linkage are in place, you can start on the wiring. E3. 0s with manual transmissions have two clutch switches, one for the start relay and one for the cruise control. Manual transmissions have an external reverse light switch, which plugs into the car’s harness. In place of all this, automatic transmissions have a five- wire harness that connects each of these points to the automatic shifter. The Getrag 2. 40 transmission used behind four- cylinder engines has a number of improvements including asymmetrical synchronizer engagement teeth on the second gear (bottom). Compare the engagement teeth to the symmetrical teeth on the first gear (top). This improves shift performance in upshifts. This feature also helps make it a smooth- shifting transmission. Similar to the 2. Install both switches if you must have a functioning clutch- in start enable. If it does not bother you that your car can be started with the clutch in or out, just use one clutch switch. If you use one switch, disable the start relay by removing it and installing a jump wire between pin #3. Bosch relay). To get the cruise control working, find and unplug connector C1. It’s under the instrument panel and has a green/black wire on one side and a blue/brown wire on the other. This enables the cruise control when the start relay is disabled. Unplug the jumper connected to one of the clutch switch connectors near the pedal assembly. Plug the now- open connector to the clutch switch that you have installed. Your cruise control should now function properly. To get the reverse lights working, you can trace the harness back under the dash and connect the MT wires to the connector they are supposed to connect to in a manual car.
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